4/6/8 on Pro Quartz Infrared

Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4/6/8

Sun, 12 Jul 2026 12:50:47 +0800

Fixing the Heat Gap in SIG Blomax and KHS Blow Molding

If you’ve run KHS or SIG Blomax 4/6/8 machines, you know the headache of uneven heat. One minute everything is fine, and the next, you’re staring at bottles with wonky wall thickness or weird deformations. It’s frustrating. We decided to tackle those heat-field gaps head-on. Our replacement lamps aren’t some complicated overhaul—they’re a simple drop-in. They do exactly what the OEM lamps do, and in a lot of cases, they actually do it better. The power side of things These lamps are built to pack a lot of punch into a small space. We balanced the voltage and wattage so the filament hits its operating temperature fast. The goal here is to get the preform to that glass transition point quickly without overshooting. Because if you overshoot, you get scorching. Simple as that. Just do yourself a favor and double-check that your power supply can handle the current draw. You don’t want to burn them out prematurely. Why the glass matters We use high-purity quartz because PET blowing is brutal on equipment. The thermal cycling is extreme. Inside, there’s a halogen cycle that stops the tungsten filament from evaporating and clouding up the tube walls. This keeps the light clear and the heat moving. We also have a few versions with special coatings. These shift the infrared spectrum so the heat actually hits the preform, rather than just baking your machine frame. Getting them running Swapping these in is easy. They use standard connectors, so you can just pop them in and go. No rewiring the oven, no drama. One thing we spent a lot of time on is the “end-effect.” You know how the temperature usually dips off at the edges of the lamp? We fixed that by tweaking the filament length. It kills those annoying cold spots. One quick heads-up: more heat density means your oven’s ventilation has to work harder. If you decide to push the wattage higher than the original specs, make sure your cooling fans are actually doing their job. Otherwise, you’re risking warped reflector housings, and nobody wants to deal with that.

Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 4/6/8/10

Wed, 17 Jun 2026 18:33:48 +0800

Out on the blow molding floor, an old lamp doesn’t fail with a bang. It fades. You start seeing slower cycles, heavier wall thickness, and more scrap piling up. Then the maintenance tickets follow: emergency callouts, parts that don’t quite match, and a heating tunnel that never settles. On SIG Blomax 4/6/8/10 lines, that instability hits right where it matters—throughput and bottle-to-bottle consistency. What matters under the hood We built this replacement as a direct-fit infrared emitter for SIG Blomax 4/6/8/10 heating tunnels. Quartz envelope, tuned filament—short-wave output that’s predictable, so preform skin heats quickly without scorching. The geometry is a straight match: same overall length, same R7s connector interface, same mounting footprint. Electrically, it’s specced to the machine’s standard voltage and power draw, so the control profile you’re already running stays put. No re-tuning the PID. No second-guessing watt density. Why this plays in stretch blow molding The heating window is tight in stretch blow molding. Let lamp output drift, and you’re chasing it down the line—longer dwell, higher pressure, more rejects. This emitter stabilizes the tunnel profile, which helps you hold wall thickness and cut back on flash and stress marks. The payoff is fewer unplanned stops and a process that repeats, shift after shift. In real life, teams see fewer lamp changes over a production year, less spare inventory, and less downtime spent swapping parts. Energy stays in line because the emitter matches the machine’s designed thermal load. A few shop-floor notes Installation is straightforward, but the tunnel is tight. Handle the quartz tube by the metal base, not the glass, and double-check reflector alignment once it’s seated. The lamp is engineered for SIG Blomax 4/6/8/10 compatibility, but verify your machine’s exact voltage and the condition of the connector—older units can have wiring differences that affect seating and contact resistance. After the first change, run a temperature scan to confirm your setpoints are still hitting the mark.